Winterizing Your Lawnmower

Just a few weeks ago I was winterizing my lawn to prepare it for next season’s spring green up.  The grass is not dormant yet, but it has stopped growing.  I used my lawnmower only to mulch the leaves that have fallen these past two weeks, but the leaves will soon stop falling.  Now it is time to winterize my lawnmower.

Winterizing your lawnmower will save you the stress of dealing with a dead battery, dull blades, and bad gas next spring.  Here are a few simple steps to winterizing your lawnmower.

1.       Clean all yard debris off the mower.

2.       Drain the gas or add a fuel stabilizer such as STA-Bil.

3.       Clean or replace the air filter.

4.       Charge the battery.

5.       Change the oil.

6.       Sharpen the blades.    

I will be the first to admit that writing the steps to winterizing a lawnmower is a lot easier than actually doing these steps.  The only time you will see me with a wrench in my hand is when I am giving it to my husband.  Whether or not you are mechanically minded, knowing these steps is important.  If you don’t personally winterize your lawnmower, hire someone to do the job for you.  Know these steps so you can ensure that your lawnmower is properly winterized.  When next spring rolls around, your lawnmower will be ready to fire up.    

 

http://www.renovateyourworld.com/HowTo_Library/How_to_Store_Your_Lawnmower_for_Winter-Tool_Care-A3637.html

Nematodes in Residential Lawns

I am fascinated with nematodes after to listening to this week’s lectures on nematode management.  It’s amazing how something so small can be so difficult to eradicate.  If a homeowner gets these little pests in his yard, he has absolutely no way to control them.  The only option a homeowner has is to keep the lawn as stress free as possible is by proper management of the lawn.  These management practices are the same that I have stated all semester.  They are proper mowing height and amount of fertilizer, and deep infrequent watering.   

One question that I have is what happens to the nematodes during the winter?  Do they continue to feed on the roots of dormant grass?  I did some research but found little answers.  I did find that nematode activity is dependent on temperature causing more damage during high temperatures with activity tapering off during cold periods.  I did not find enough information to know what happens to nematode infested grass while the grass is dormant.  Maybe this answer is not known.  In any case, the nematodes will still be there the next season.  Hopefully the grass was healthy enough to withstand any nematode feeding while it was dormant.  I can’t imagine having to constantly deal with an infestation.  The only solution to a homeowner has to ridding their lawn of a nematode problem is to rip out the current lawn and resod with a host resistant cultivar.  These little guys can give a homeowner a big headache and possibly an empty pocket book.   

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/Crow_RP_07.pdf

Larra bicolor Wasp

After listening to this week’s lectures on turf pests, it seems that there is some help from beneficial insects to lower turf pest populations, but to gain good control over a pest population one has to use a chemical spray.  I thought if the beneficial insects were somehow attracted to a yard, the increased population of the beneficials could then control the pest population and eliminate the need for chemical spray.  I figured I was not the first to think of the idea of attracting beneficials, and did a little research to find out what others already know.  It didn’t take me long to find out about the Larra bicolor wasp.  This wasp parasitizes mole crickets by laying an egg inside the cricket.  The wasp larva feeds on the mole cricket killing it within two weeks.  The Larra bicolor wasp is not an aggressive wasp because it does not form and guard nests, so you don’t have to worry about being stung.  And, yes, you can attract this wasp to your yard.  It feeds on the nectar of the southern larra flower.  The flower is not very attractive, but I am all in for planting one or two southern larra plants in my yard if it will help to minimize a turf pest.   

     

Image retrieved from: http://midsouthentomologist.org.msstate.edu

 

http://ipm.ifas.ufl.edu/resources/projects/molecricket1.shtml

http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/fasulomolecrickets/mcri0300.htm

 

Foot Traffic

Last Saturday I spent my afternoon tailgating on the lawn outside Van Fleet Hall.  Even though I had a great time, I couldn’t help but think the grass was not having such a good time.  There were wall to wall people around the O’Connell Center walking all over the grass, causing the already drought stressed grass to wave its white flag in surrender.  I began thinking about how much foot traffic the grass on campus receives, and thought I would do a little research to find out what effect foot traffic has on turf grass and what steps can be taken to minimize the damage.

Foot traffic can damage the leaf tissue which reduces the ability for that leaf to photosynthesize.  Foot traffic also compacts the soil which damages the grass’s roots and minimizes the grass’s ability to uptake water and nutrients. Keeping the grass healthy will minimize the effects of foot traffic and will aid in the recovery time.  Some tips to keeping a healthy lawn are to fertilize when needed.  Do not over fertilize as this will cause the grass to become lush and will not be able to withstand the foot traffic. Mow at a high cut, and deeply irrigate your grass only when needed.  Deep, infrequent irrigation will result in healthy root growth.  If you know when you will have heavy foot traffic on your lawn, water it a couple of days prior to the foot traffic.  This will give your grass a good drink so it is not drought stressed, but the soil will not be wet when it is being walked on.  Dry soil does not compact as easily as wet soil. Lastly, aerate the soil if needed to loosen any compacted areas.  Follow these tips and you should have a healthy lawn that can withstand all tailgating.

Reference:

Trenholm, L.E. & Unruh, J.B. (2011). Minimizing Traffic Damage to Your Florida Lawn. Retrieved form University of Florida, Gainesville, IFAS Extension website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep071

Weed Control with Pre-emergence Herbicides

With my hectic schedule these past couple weeks, I have done little more for my grass than traipse across the same few blades everyday to get to and from my car.  Feeling guilty about neglecting my lawn, I made it a priority to mow this weekend.  As I was walking across my lawn to hop on my tractor, I noticed my feet were covered in little green seeds.  I began to look for the weed that left these seeds on my feet, and noticed a patch of green where it had once been brown all summer from the previous year’s chinch bug invasion.  After a little research, I came to the conclusion that this is an old world diamond weed.  This type of weed is a warm season annual that reproduces by seed.  With this information, I began wondering why this weed is growing in my yard.  I pay a service company to control the weeds in my lawn and I have not had any problems with weeds this season.   It is obvious that a pre-emergent herbicide was applied to my lawn this spring so why am I getting warm season weeds now?  I began researching the longevity of pre-emergent herbicides.  Longevity differs with each product, but one factor remains the same for all and that is environment.  The excessive rain this season is giving us homeowners one more reason to pull out our hair in frustration.  Excessive rain breaks down the herbicide leaving your grass susceptible to weeds late in the season.

 Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied for warm season and cold season weeds.  It has to be applied before the weed germinates, and acts as a barrier that does not allow weeds to grow once germinated.  For some grasses, pre-emergent herbicides can only be applied when day time temperatures do not exceed 85 degrees.  This limits the dates a pre-emergent herbicide can be applied.  Since Florida’s warm season lasts for an extended period of time, it is quite possible that a pre-emergent herbicide will break down every year before the cold season arrives.  Keeping your lawn healthy by fertilizing at the proper rate, mowing your lawn at the proper height (not too short) and watering your grass when it is shows signs of wilting can reduce the emergence of weeds.   

I had planned to just wait for the grass fill back in over time where the chinch bugs had killed the grass last year. The area did fill back in, just not with grass.  I now need to spray the area with an herbicide to kill the weeds then resod.  I should have resodded the area this spring allowing the grass to become well established over the summer.  This would have minimized the chance for weeds to emerge.   Lesson learned.      

References:

Westmiller, R. (2011, February 7). Pre-Emergent Controls: Win the War on Weeds, Irrigation and Green Industry. Retrieved from: http://www.igin.com/article-1940-pre_emergent_control.html

Old world diamond weed from my yard.

Fall Fertilizing

Fertilizing is an important aspect in keeping a healthy lawn.  The three main nutrients for turfgrass are nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium.  Nitrogen enables turfgrass to make chlorophyll which is used to perform photosynthesis.  Phosphorous is important for growth and potassium helps turfgrass become hardy against certain stresses such as drought and traffic stress.   Most of Florida’s soil has enough phosphorous to supply the nutritional needs of a lawn, but nitrogen and potassium need to be supplemented in the form of fertilizer. 

The amount and frequency of fertilizer applications vary with each species of grass.  Below is a chart showing the proper amount and frequency of fertilization for each species in a growing season. 

Nitrogen fertilizer recommendations for Florida turfgrass species

Species/location in Florida	Interim N recommendations (lbs 1000 ft-2 yr-1)*, **
Bahiagrass – North	2–3
Bahiagrass – Central	2–4
Bahiagrass – South	2–4
Bermudagrass – North	3–5
Bermudagrass – Central	4–6
Bermudagrass – South	5–7
Centipedegrass – North	1–2
Centipedegrass – Central	2–3
Centipedegrass – South	2–3
St. Augustinegrass – North	2–4
St. Augustinegrass – Central	2–5
St. Augustinegrass – South	4–6
Zoysiagrass – North	3–5
Zoysiagrass – Central	3–6
Zoysiagrass – South	4–6
*Homeowner preferences for lawn quality and maintenance level will vary; therefore, a range of fertility rates is recommended for each grass and location. Additionally, effects within a localized region (i.e., microenvironmental influences such as shade, drought, soil conditions, and irrigation) will necessitate that a range of fertility rates be used. **These recommendations assume that grass clippings are recycled.

Image retrieved from: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep435

Although fertilizer frequency differs with each species, the growing period is the same for all species growing in the same climate.  An actively growing lawn needs nutrients.  Your lawn should be fertilized as soon as spring green up occurs with subsequent applications throughout the growing season. 

For all of us living in Florida, the last fertilizing period is here.  We should give our grass one last application.  So dust off the spreader and pull out the fertilizer bag this weekend or next.  When you are done, pack it up for the winter and know your fertilizing job is done for the year.   

References:

Trenholm, L. E., Kruse, J. K., & Unruh, J. B. (2010). The Lawn Fertilizer Toolbox. Retrieved form University of Florida, Gainesville, IFAS Extension website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep435

Unruh, J. B., Trenholm, L. E., & Cisar, J. L. (2011). Centipedegrass for Florida Lawns. Retrieved form University of Florida, Gainesville, IFAS Extension website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh009

 

The Proper Amount of Water

The excessive amount of rain in Gainesville these past months has caused grief and heartache for three homeowners in my neighborhood.  The reservoir area behind their home is flooded and running into their yards leaving their soil constantly saturated.  The lawn of one homeowner, sadly, is dying.  I am not sure if the grass is dying from a fungus or from the roots not getting enough oxygen.  Watching these lawns struggle I ask the question, "what happens when a lawn gets too much water and how much water does it need?"  According to Trenholm, Unruh, and Cisar (2006), too much water can cause a poor root structure, a build up of thatch, and can cause the turf to become susceptible to fungus and insect infestation.  I am sure that I am among many friends when I say that I have had problems with bugs and fungus in my yard this season.  Although the excess water has been due to rain this season, during dry weeks when homeowners over irrigate their lawn are actually inviting fungus and insects to live in their lawn.  This brings me to the second half of my question, how much water does a lawn need?  The short answer is it depends.  It depends on the type of grass you have and how hot it is.  Some of the signs you can look for in your lawn to know when it needs water are when the leaf blade will fold in half, the grass will turn a green gray color, and the grass will not pop back up immediately after walking on it.  During our next dry spell instead of turning your sprinkler system back on to automatic timer, try watching your lawn to give you the signs that it needs water.  Give it a good soak only when your grass is ready for a drink and know that you are helping it resist those pesky insects and fungus. 

           
Watering Your Florida Lawn
 

The tire tracks from the lawnmower show how saturated this ground is.

This homeowner mowed his lawn over a week ago.  There has not been any new growth and many of the blades have turned brown. 

 

Reference:

Trenholm, L.,Unruh, J., & Cisar J. (2006). Watering Your Florida Lawn. Retrieved form University of Florida, Gainesville, IFAS Extension website: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh025

 

 

Why St. Augustine!?!

Two years ago I moved to Gainesville. I had made it a priority on my house shopping list to find a house without St. Augustine grass. I almost cried when I saw that almost every yard in Gainesville had St. Augustine grass.  Why don't I like St. Augustine grass?  Let me tell you.

Prior to moving to Gainesville, I lived in Pensacola Florida.  The climate is similar to Gainesville with the exception of the winters being a little colder, but only by a few degrees.  The grass of choice for Pensacola yards is centipede grass.  My front yard had centipede, but my back yard had St. Augustine.  Not knowing much about grass, I did not do much other than water and cut the grass.  Shortly after moving in, I noticed a large area of the St. Augustine grass dying.  Not knowing what to do, I called a lawn service company and $200 later the cinch bugs were killed.  I vowed never to spend that kind of money on my lawn again, and decided to research how to maintain St. Augustine grass.  My research lead me to find that most herbicide and pesticide products available on the market can not be used on St. Augustine grass.  The product will inevitably kill the weed or pest, but it will also kill the grass.  In the four years I lived in Pensacola, I struggled to keep the St. Augustine grass alive.  Between the cinch bugs, sod web worms, weeds, and fungus, there was very little St. Augustine grass left.

My front yard; however, was different.  The centipede grass required very little care.   Not once did it get infested with bugs, or fungus, and I was able to spot spray any emerging weeds with Weed-B-Gone without damaging the grass.  It always looked green and healthy.

Happy to be rid of my Pensacola back yard, I was ready to find a centipede sodded yard in Gainesville.  Needless to say I did not find such a yard. Less then a month after moving into Gainesville my lawn started to look bad.  It had a fungus.  Knowing I could not let both my front and back yard turn into weeds, I broke down and hired a lawn service company to maintain pest and weed control and to fertilize the lawn.  I just moved again into another house in Gainesville this summer.  The St. Augustine was well kept by the previous owner.  I did not start up lawn service immediately, and shortly after moving in the grass began to look bad.  It had sod web worms.  Again, I had to hire a lawn service.  The lawn service man forgot to spray a section of the grass.  A week later I realized that section was getting worse instead of better.  By the time the service man could come back again to spray, the majority of the grass had died.  It has been just a little over a week since the grass was sprayed and some of it is coming back, but now the area will be susceptible to weeds.  St. Augustine grass is so frustrating!

All the problems I have had with St. Augustine grass has led me to ask why is it preferred over centipede grass in Gainesville.  I called three local nurseries and asked if they carried both St. Augustine and centipede grasses.  They all did, so both species are available to the public .  I compared the price of a pallet of grass to see if that was a factor and found one nursery's price for centipede was cheaper than their price for St. Augustine; one nursery priced both grasses the same; and one nursery's price was higher for centipede than their price for St. Augustine.  Not only were these nurseries inconsistent with which product they priced higher, they ranged in price from $125 to $250 a pallet.  Price is clearly not a factor.

This leads me shade tolerance.  If comparing St. Augustine with centipede for shade tolerance, St. Augustine will win.  There are a lot of trees in Gainesville yards which require the most shade tolerant grass, but not all yards are created equal.  Next time you drive through a Gainesville neighborhood, look at how many front yards are treeless or have just one or two small trees that do not give off much shade.  Look at their grass.  Is it St. Augustine or centipede?  More than likely it is St. Augustine.  My goal is to prescribe the right plant for the right area for my future clients.  Unless my opinion about St. Augustine grass changes, I will be prescribing centipede grass to all homeowners with a sunny lot. 
              
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep072